The Dolomites, Alta Via 1 (in reverse)

2002, 16 days

For some reason we digressed from the plan: At the middle weekend we didn't go to Città di Fiume - Passo Giao - Cortina, we went via Venezia - Palmieri instead. And had an extra day in Cortina at the end.

Guidebooks:

FanesThe Fanes Group seen from near Rifugio Lagazuoi on Alta Via 1 (July 2002)
Date Daytime Overnight Notes/Alternatives
Saturday 29/6 10:40 MAN terminal 1 flight SN2174 arr. Brussels 12:55
13:50 flight SN3203 arr. Venice 15:25
River taxi to Piazza San Marco (€85 approx) or aliscafo (shuttle boat) “Alilunga” (€10 per person)
Hotel Saturnia & International, 041 520 83 77
San Marco, Via XXII Marzo 2398 (€396)
 
Sunday 30/6 Train from Venezia S Lucia to Belluno:
13:27 arr. Belluno 15:20 or
15:00 arr. Padova 15:31 dep. 15:45 arr. Belluno 17:45
16:42 arr. Conegliano 17:37 dep. 17:53 arr. Belluno 18:55
Albergo delle Alpe, 0437 940545
Via Jacopo Tasso, 13 (€96.06)
 
Monday 1/7 Take bus at 9:20 or 11:00 (2001 timetable) from station north towards Agordo, journey time about 20 mins, get off at bridge over il torrente Vescovà, 449m. Walk east up Val Vescovà approx 4½ official hours to Rif. Pian de Fontana, 1632m. Rif. Pian de Fontana, 0437 770177 Lunch at Rif. Bianchet, 1250m, 2 hours.
Tuesday 2/7 Walk 3¼* hours to Rif. Pramperet, 1857m.
* times are from the Alta Via book, adjusted for reverse direction by ¼ hour per 150m height difference
Sommariva al Pramperet, 0422 716354 Side-trips up Talvena (2542m, rough, 1½ hours up from AV1), Cime di Città (2465m).
Wednesday 3/7 Walk 4 hours, last part on road, to Passo Duran, 1601m. Or “Zoldano Variant”, in AV book, 6½ hours. Rif. Passo Duran ‘Cesare Tomè’, 0437 65199
Rif. San Sebastiano, 0437 62360
1 hour further on, Rif. Bruto Carestiato, 1834 m, 0437 62949
Thursday 4/7 Walk 3½ hours to Rif. Vazzoler, 1714m. Rif. Mario Vazzoler, 0437 660008 (Michael: via ferrata Gianni Costantini, looks a bit hard/long)
Friday 5/7 Walk 4 hours to Rif. Coldai, 2135m. Or variant on paths 558, 557, 588 (described in VF book), 6 hours. Rif. Adolfo Sonino al Coldai, 0437 789160 (Michael: via ferrata Attilio Tissi, 5 hours up from Vazzoler, 4 hours down to Coldai)
Lunch at Rif. Tissi? 2½ hours + 2 hours
Saturday 6/7 Walk 3 hours via Casera Vescovado to Rif. Città di Fiume, 1917m. Variant via Pala Favera and Col delle Crepe, 1 hour longer, quicker using chairlift descent. Rif. Città di Fiume, 0437 720268 (Michael: even longer variant round S and E of Pelmo via Col delle Crepe, from there 5¾ hours to Città di Fiume via Rifugio Venezia and Forcella Val d’Arcia)
Lunch: Rifugio Passo Staulanza? 1:45 + 1:15, slightly off Col delle Crepe route.
Sunday 7/7 Walk 4¼ hours to Passo Giau, 2233m. Rif. Passo Giau, 0437 20130 Alternative route in AV book via Rif Palmieri Gianni - Croda del Lago (2¾ hours, 2046m, 0436 862085, lunch?), Rifugio Cinque Torri (4¾ hours, 2137m, 0436 2902), Rifugio Scoiattoli (5 hours, 2280m, 0436 867939, chairlift down to main road).
1¼ hours further on, Rif. Nuvolau, 2574m, 0436 867938
Monday 8/7 Bus or taxi to Cortina. Hotel Royal (€60) (Michael: via ferrata?)
Tuesday 9/7 Lifts to Rif. Pomedes, 2203m, then walk (6km, +750m, say 3½ official hours) to Rif. Lagazuoi, 2752m. Rif. Lagazuoi, 0436 867303  
Wednesday 10/7 Walk 3¼ hours to Rif. La Varella, 2042m. Or variant over Monte Cavallo and Monte Castello (not so bad in this direction). Other slight variant via Rifugio Scotoni 1 hour extra. Rif. La Varella, 0474 501079. Also Rif. Fanes nearby, 2060m, 0474 501097. Side trip from Passo Tadéga to La Varella, 3055m.
Thursday 11/7 Walk 3 hours to Rif. Sennes, 2126m. Should take variant via Bancdalse to Rifugio Fodara Vedla again (time unknown). Rif. Sennes, 0474 501092  Lunch at Rifugio Fodara Vedla? Possibly a bit late.
Friday 12/7 Walk 2¾ hours to Lago di Braies, 1500m. Hotel Lago di Braes, 0474 748 602 (€110) Side trip from Porta Sora ‘L Forn to Croda del Beco, 2810m, 2 hours extra.
Saturday 13/7
Bus to Dobbiaco then Cortina. Bus to Calalzo then train to Treviso.
09:00/11:15 bus arr. Dobbiaco 09:28/11:40
10:15/12:10 bus arr. Cortina 11:00/13:00
? bus to Calalzo (Dolomitibus web site broken)
14:55/16:07 train arr. Treviso 17:15/18:47
Hotel Continental, 042 241 12 16
Via Roma, 16 (€137)
There’s also an ATVO coach leaves Cortina at 15:15 arriving Treviso 17:40.
Sunday 14/7 09:41 train arr. Venezia Mestre 10:00
Bus no. 5 to airport
12:15 flight SN3202 arr. Brussels 13:55
14:45 flight SN2177 arr. Manchester 15:05
  Or taxi Treviso to airport ½ hour.